Beauty and Bite

Fall Is Showing Its Teeth

Image Above: PRADA Fall 2019 Runway: Cover Story Image: Moschino Fall 2019 Ruway

BY: Andy Shoulders

This season’s fall runways certainly packed a punch. Specific points of view, cutting-edge design, and in-your-face attitude were the common threads woven through many of this season’s shows. Let’s explore a few.

1. MOSCHINO

Moschino is often top of mind when it comes to fashion with attitude. The brand’s quirkiness and sense of humor always set it apart from the pack. For his fall 2019 collection, creative director Jeremy Scott went for old-fashioned escapism with nods to TV game shows (and references to his fall 2001 collection), TV dinner-inspired bags and kimonos, and dollar signs aplenty. Scott appreciates the value of good ole camp. “There’s always shit in everyone’s life,” he said. “A little levity, a little bit of fun – there’s nothing wrong with it.” Scott’s creative direction for Moschino always brilliantly drives home the fact that shopping isn’t always the solution; a good laugh is.

MOSCHINO Fall 2019 Runway Model in Blonde Big Hair Do and Gold Leather Belted and Sequined Mini Dress

MOSCHINO Runway Fall 2019 Punky Model with big hair and mini dress with printed phrase with her and matching stilettos

2. PRADA

Prada’s fall 2019 show explored utalitarianism through the eyes of Mary Shelley’s monstrous antihero: Frankenstein. When developing the collection, Miuccia Prada was very consumed by European conflicts and the more general threat of war. It obviously showed on the runway, with Prada’s signature novelty and playfulness balanced out by a looming sense of dread. Even with the constant reverence to Shelley and Frankenstein, the collection was still very Prada: fashion for the woman who knows what’s going on, but who still likes to play dress-up.

PRADA Runway Fall 2019 Model looking punky wearing black t-shirt with image of madeline kahn as Mrs Frankenstein in Young Frankenstein and black red lace up boots at black patterned stockings

PRADA Runway 2019 Model Wearing Gray Military Inspired Jacket and Skirt and Hot Pink Lace Up Boots

3. CHANEL

For a house that had just lost its creative director, Karl Lagerfeld, its fall 2019 collection was understandably a somber one. The show seemed to struggle with how to properly honor someone who so famously eschewed sentimentality. What we got was classic Chanel: pleated trousers, skirt suits, and tweed galore. The winter wonderland setting only served to magnify the icy playfulness that Lagerfeld always infused into his collections. Sometimes, sticking with the classics is the boldest point of view one can have, and for a genius mind like Lagerfeld’s, the only sendoff that makes sense.

Chanel 2019 Runway Model Wearing Black Cape_White Shirt with Black Tie_Black Leather Pants and Fur Boots with Metal Trim

Chanel 2019 Runway Model Wearing Multiple Tweed Black and White Patterns and Lambswool and Leather Chunky Boots

4. VERSACE

For Versace’s fall 2019 collection, Donatella Versace played with perhaps one of the most challenging and impossible concepts in fashion: perfection. Instead of striving for perfection in the literal sense, Versace showed her disdain for the obsession with perfection in the Instagram era by going full 90s grunge. Not to worry, the house’s signature safety pins and bondage harnesses were still there. They were just mixed in with a throwback black slip dress or schoolgirl tweed skirt. Funny how rallying against perfection can make a collection so…perfect.

VERSACE Runway Fall 2019 Model wearing frayed black sweater with large V and other pins_plaid skirt with slit revealing an orange and lime green trimmed lace slip and lime green shoes

VERSACE Fall 2019 Runway Model wearing Versace greek key pattern gold choker_orange silk patterned dress and lime green floral stockings and matching lime green shoes

5. VALENTINO

Creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli wanted to create something for his fall 2019 collection that emphasized shared values, rather than luxurious lifestyle. Piccioli found inspiration from the Movement for the Emancipation of Poetry – an anonymous group that pastes lyrical lines on city walls across the globe. This idea of publicly accessible poetry about love and happiness led Piccioli to commission a group of writers to create a small publication titled “Valentino on Love.” Every attendee received a copy, and certain lines from the anthology could be found embroidered inside coats and inside bags & boots – a hidden gift solely for the wearer. An interesting dichotomy started to appear in the show: clear emblazoned script on the pieces paired with Valentino’s signature mastery of simplicity, which is something that can’t be put into words.

VALENTINO Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Black Neck Scarf and Black Coat with Interesting Abstract Image on the botton of the coat and black pointed toe boots

VALENTINO Fall 2019 Runway Model wearing black studded sunglasses black long coat and red pointed toe boots

 

Also demonstrating bad girl bite this season:

COACH

COACH Runway Fall 2019 Model Wearing Gypsy inspired floral dress with skinny black bow tie_plaid shorts and pointed toe black tie boots with white trim

COACH Runway Fall 2019 Model Wearing Black and Blue Plaid Coat with Leather Trim, thin black bow tie_plaid shirt_blue pants and black sneakers with white trim

MIU MIU

MIU MIU Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Black Velvet cropped jacket and black velvet shorts and camoflauge ankle boots with black laces

MIU MIU Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Military Inspired Navy Long Cape with black mini skirt and black lace up boots

SIMONE ROCHA

SIMONE ROCHA Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing an amazing black dress with black sequined bustier over black dress with layers of cut black long ribbons and black lace up platform boots

SIMONE ROCHA Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Crown_sheer black dress with puffy short sleeves and white shoes with black rubber soles and lacesMM

MARC JACOBS

MARC JACOBS Fall 2019 Model Wearing Tuxedo and Leopard Print Scarf

MARC JACOBS Fall 2019 Runway Model wearing Leopard Print Cape with striped pants and brown boots

MCQUEEN

MCQUEEN Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Navy and Black Tuxedo Inspired Suit with Studded belts and jewelry

MCQUEEN Fall 2019 Runway Model Wearing Amazing Scupltural Red Dress with Black Leather Belt and Black Lace Up Military Inspired Boots

 

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