Seoul Fashion Week

Crazy, Cool From The Runway To The Street

image above a street look from seoul fashion week; cover image: munn backstage of seoul fashion week

BY: Andy Shoulders

And y’all thought NYC Fashion Week was edgy!

Spring/Summer 2020 shows just took place in Seoul last week, and as expected, the street style that strutted down the runways was nothing short of amazing. It was also refreshingly different than the street styles we saw in New York, Paris, and Milan. Surprising touches of prep sneaked in (think madras skirts, three-piece suits, and plaids) as well as utility (cargo pants and boilersuits). The common thread seemed to be oversized silhouettes. I know – we’re all starting to tire of the constant barrage of oversized fits, but it’s all about how you style them. Here are a few highlights from Seoul Fashion Week to get you inspired.

RE;CODE

One of the most compelling brands on the Seoul Fashion Week schedule was Han Kyung-Ae’s RE;CODE. A champion of ethical production, RE;CODE gave us a fresh take on responsible design with a distinctly bold, mix-and-match spirit, and was a leading brand at Seoul’s first ever Sustainable Fashion Summit (one of the banner events of this season’s Seoul Fashion Week). RE;CODE’s show took place at an exhibition-turned-presentation on an island in the middle of Seoul’s Han River, with visitors being guided through racks of old suiting & officewear being refashioned into new pieces by uber-talented seamstresses. The aesthetic vision wasn’t lost, either. Patchworked shirts reminded us of the reconstituting Commes des Garcons did for their SHIRT collection, and on-theme utility looks provided a welcome contrast. Get familiar with RE;CODE. Their balance of elegance and intelligence is undeniable, and get this – they’ll even take your old garments and remake them into something completely new. Now that’s one of a kind.

RE;CODE

Minjukim

A refreshing standout from the bold streetwear that dominates Seoul Fashion Week, designer Minju Kim’s label, appropriately named Minjukim, focused on delicate, romantic craftsmanship for Spring/Summer 2020. Kim has become Seoul’s Simone Rocha of sorts, with a love of heavy embroidery and Victorian-esque silhouettes. For this collection, Kim went in a sleeker direction while still keeping the shapes she’s known for. We saw the same gothic & fetishistic influences she showed in her Fall/Winter 2019 collection, this time with a more minimalistic approach, which made it a buyer’s favorite of the week. This pivot to a more streamlined, sellable aesthetic was a smart one, and it furthered Kim’s reputation as one of Seoul’s most exciting and sought-after talents.

Minjukim

Youser

Old Western influence ran rampant at Lee Mooyeol’s latest show for his daring street-style-obsessed label Youser. Bathed in ultraviolet light, the show featured hybridized looks including lycra tops with neon accents, hooded sweatshirts emblazoned with certificates of authenticity, and the aforementioned flash of country style – cowboy hats, long fringe, you get the idea. At points the show’s eclecticism got just a little busy, but wading through all of Lee’s many ideas led to some truly on-the-mark moments (like the neon cross-body bags designed to match
the subtle neon piping on shirt collars). These clothes will undoubtedly start appearing on the style-obsessed fashionistas of Seoul who parade the ramps outside the shows, hoping to get photographed in their latest head-turning looks – which is probably the best seal of approval a designer could get.

Youser

Be sure to check out the shows from Seoul Fashion Week, as well as other designers’ looks featured here (Munn, ChanceChance). You’ll be amazed at what they’re doing with streetwear and with just how far they’re pushing the envelope.

CHANCE CHANCE