Todd Oldham
"All of Everything" at the Wexner
Often times the great fashion designers of past eras fit into three categories. Couturiers can become culture-defining forces and massive corporate entities, others can fade away, or designers leave us, but still shine bright with influence and memories. Todd Oldham definitely fits into the third category, and a survey of his past work called All of Everything at the Wexner Center for the Arts is an example of why he remains such a beloved and special designer.
As the title of the exhibition may suggest, Oldham is a true maximalist. Over a brief decade, from 1989 to 1999, Oldham became known for unapologetic glamour, feminine shapes, humorous takes on color and pattern, and an intense focus on craftsmanship and rich detail. Often times, shuttered fashion houses do not necessarily have archives to ease the work of academics (think Helmut Lang), but Oldham’s laborious creations prevented him from high production numbers or sample sales. The designer also is still working today, albeit in publishing, home goods, and other fields of design. Since Oldham is around and active as ever, he had a heavy hand in the design of the installation, along with help from Kate Irvin, Curator, Costume and Textiles at the RISD Museum and the Wexner’s Megan Cavanaugh, Director of Exhibitions Management.
With so much in favor of the designer, the clothes, and the museums, the viewer is left with absolutely stunning creations of high-volume glamour and fun. Thick embroideries, jewel encrusted dresses, and amusing references to history and craft-making make this exhibition a feast for the eyes. A little suit that riffs on midcentury couture suddenly becomes a beaded masterwork when viewed closer. Amazingly enough, despite the breathtaking detail or challenging volumes of huge skirts or skin baring cutouts, these clothes still exude an ease and a relaxed attitude.
These clothes illustrate how potent Oldham is as an influence on today’s collections. Newer designers like Lou Dallas or Prabal Gurung all owe some level of debt to this master of ‘90s fashion, and although he is happy now in his current endeavors, this show makes one wish that Oldham would return for a second act.
