Tom Ford Rules

BY: Andy Shoulders

With this season’s New York Fashion Week now over, it can be hard to remember all of the runways, locations, and fashions that vied for our attention. Designers have all had to get more creative when it comes to where and what they show. I’ve rounded up four main highlights from NYFW here, from abandoned subway platforms as runways to an 80s neon party.

Tom Ford
“I think it’s time for ease,” Tom Ford wrote of his latest show, “and in that way a return to the kind of luxurious sportswear that America has become known for all over the world.” Staged on a disused J/Z train platform at the Bowery subway station and lit in an electric pink, Ford’s show emphasized the classic high-low aesthetic. A drapey jersey T-shirt paired with a striking white duchesse satin maxi skirt, classic blazers cut in the famously strong Tom Ford style paired with elastic-waist nylon basketball shorts…the theme was clear. Ford also hit on another key trend of the season, the almost-naked look, with dress coats over leather bras and jumpsuits cut to expose bikini tops. Tom Ford clearly has a stake in classic American sportswear, and the attendees at his latest show (most of them probably first timers on a subway platform) were treated to a front-row seat.

Jeremy Scott
Jeremy Scott’s self-described “neon rock opera” was just what we needed for a little escapism. The extremely kitschy sci-fi-themed show featured a complete lack of anything run-of-the-mill when it comes to fashion, with as much attitude and excitement as possible crammed into each and every piece. Zebra-striped dresses, psychedelic Hawaiian prints, and color-splattered blazers & coats clearly conveyed Scott’s penchant for all things loud and nonconformist. There was SO much to look at that the construction and theme of each piece tended to give way to the general feeling of euphoria that Scott loves to induce. Was the show playful and unserious? Yes. Is that most definitely ok, though? Also yes.

Rihanna (Savage X Fenty)
There is literally nothing this gal can’t do. Rihanna pulled out all the stops for her Savage X Fenty show, with last year’s widely praised inclusion-focused show setting quite the benchmark. Top models of today and years past (Alek Wek!!!) were all on hand to strut the runway for Rihanna’s lingerie line, which continues to preach the concepts of sexiness and inclusivity.
“My vision for the Savage X brand has always been having women feel confident and expressing themselves,” Rihanna said in a behind-the-scenes video. “There’s no rules with designing lingerie. You can go as comfortable as you want; you can go as sexy as you want.”
Rihanna treaded both of these lines perfectly for Savage X Fenty, from comfortable-yet-stylish leisurewear to racy & ornate satin and lace pieces. She wisely dropped the collection on Amazon Fashion the day of the show, and she’s clearly proven that diversity in fashion is not a trend.

Pryer Moss

Last year, Pryor Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond took Fashion Week to Weeksville, the historic black neighborhood in Brooklyn, for the second part of a three-part series called “America, Also.” This series is meant to address the erasure of African American narratives in pop culture, and part two was hailed as one of the best of the season, which put the brand directly in the NYFW spotlight. For the third chapter in the series, Jean-Raymond again showed in Brooklyn, this time at the Kings Theater, and turned the volume WAY up. Entitled “Sister,” part three paid homage to 1930s and 40s singer-songwriter Rosetta Tharpe. Widely considered to be the godmother of rock and roll, Tharpe’s legacy has been greatly diminished, which is exactly what Jean-Raymond has set out to correct. The show was full of rhinestone-studded wide leg pants, guitar-shaped embroideries, and chunky gold beads – all nods to Tharpe and her sense of style. The last show of this amazing trilogy proved that marching to the beat of your own drummer certainly pays off.

 You can watch the full shows at Vogue.com or Style.com.