UNDRESSING SABRINA, CHER, BARBIE+
Bob Mackie The Artist
From his glitzy designs for Cher and Carol Burnett in the ‘70s, to his work with modern pop starlets like Miley Cyrus and Sabrina Carpenter, Bob Mackie — who passed away on September 14 at the age 87 — was unmatched when it came to making gorgeous gowns and costumes that commanded attention on the world stage. Mainstream media has focused on the A-listers he dressed since his passing, but his fantastical fashion’s influence on queer subcultures, the arts, and an entire generation of fashionistas deserve a moment to shine as well.
A True Artist
Born in 1939 and raised in Southern California, Mackie started as a sketch artist for costume legends like Edith Head and Jean-Louis. His drawing skills were not only joyful and chic, but evocative. Whether he drew the famous women he was designing for or random models, his sketches oozed with personality and pizzazz, rivaling any contemporary illustrator, past or present. The fact that these vibrant images would then go on to be actualized as real, wearable pieces, made his standing as a multi-media creator all the more astounding.
His approach never ceased to pop with personality and visual narrative. On The Carol Burnett Show (for which he designed thousands of costumes, including the infamous curtain-rod gown from the classic “Went with the Wind” bit) and even more significantly, The Sonny & Cher Comedy Hour, where his work got sexier and more body-baring (thanks to Cher’s perfect torso, which she showed off often in his shimmering pieces, usually coordinated with headgear, jewels and coordinated makeup).
Sensual Stylings
Beyond television, his work for music mavens such as Diana Ross, Tina Turner and Elton John earned him the nickname “Sultan of Sequins,” and indeed, his handmade couture was known for its glitter and movement, which enhanced performers on stage in wondrous ways.
His flesh-toned “naked illusion” fabrics have inspired some of the most alluring red carpet dresses in history. But even his most provocative pieces maintained a signature elegance. That was his gift. From sexy silhouettes to campy excess, whatever his vision was for a piece, he always kept it classy.
The Patron Saint of Drag
Known for bodacious beading, fanciful feathers and infusing a sense of drama in every detail, Mackie’s work truly defined the word “glamour.” Elevated by his TV and awards show fashion moments for the biggest divas in the biz, he also became the unofficial couturier for drag queens— whether they could afford his work or just the knockoffs — who sought to emulate them.
His work was built on transformation, illusion and a sense of whimsy, just like drag. He made some incredible pieces for RuPaul herself and as the art form broke out of the clubs and onto TV, he was there, of course. He was the very first guest judge on RuPaul’s Drag Race and when he accepted the inaugural “Giving Us Life-Time” Achievement Award on the show, he made sure to tell all the queens around the world, not to let anything ever “dim your sparkle!”
Welcome to the Dollhouse
While his later work with Barbie and its limited edition line of higher-priced collectables is iconic, it must be mentioned that his foray into doll fashion was for Cher first. With her cocoa skintone, long, jet-black mane, high cheek bones and three dimensional eyelashes, the Cher doll, marketed by the Mego Corporation in the 1970s, was a more exotic alternative to Mattel’s basic blonde beauty.
And for Gen-X girlies like me, this doll was everything. I might never get to own a Bob Mackie piece, but I have 4 full outfits that he designed for Cher and her tiny plastic replica decades ago. I’ve held onto them all these years because of what they represent: everyone and anyone has the ability to express themselves boldly through fashion — to be flamboyant and fabulous and alluring no matter color, size or gender. We are all works of art and following Mackie’s lead, we should dress accordingly.
The documentary “Bob Mackie: Naked Illusion” is streaming now on** HBO Max.**